Chinatown - Binondo: A Walking Food Tour
Unlike the upscale neighborhoods found parallel to it around the world, Manila’s Chinatown is nestled in a small enclave within the city, known locally as Binondo.
Binondo in Manila is the oldest Chinatown in the world, established in 1594 by the Spanish Governor Luis Pérez Dasmarinas. Even before the arrival of the Spaniards, Binondo was a place where Filipino-Chinese traders from the province of Fujian managed their businesses, turning Binondo into the center of Chinese commerce in the city.
Thanks to its strategic location, the city became a vital trading post, connecting Asia to the New World with the help of Spanish galleon ships. In those days, Chinese immigrants were not allowed inside the walls of Spanish-controlled Manila, so they settled on the piece of land across the Pasig River, establishing a permanent residence for the growing number of migrants and Chinese citizens who had converted to Catholicism.
This area, strategically positioned and within “cannon shot” range of the Spanish fortress, became known as “Isla de Binondo,” or simply “Binondo.”
Prominent residents of the area include Saint Lorenzo Ruiz and the revered founder of the Congregation of the Religious of the Virgin Mary, Mother Ignacia del Espiritu Santo.
With the support of Jesuit and Dominican priests, most Chinese immigrants and traders converted to Catholicism, making it no surprise that Manila’s Chinatown houses two of the most beautiful Baroque churches in the country. The most famous landmark in Chinatown is the Minor Basilica de San Lorenzo Ruiz, named after the first Filipino saint, Lorenzo Ruiz, who served as an altar boy in this church during his youth. Binondo Church was constructed in 1596 and is one of the oldest churches in the Philippines.
Another church, Santa Cruz Church, built in 1608, stands at the heart of Santa Cruz Square on its eastern side. Despite surviving several earthquakes and powerful typhoons, the church suffered the most significant damage during World War II and had to be rebuilt while preserving its original Baroque architectural style.
These historical churches are some of the highlights of Binondo, a place rich in history and culture that continues to be a vibrant part of Manila.
Despite the fact that most of the Chinese settlers converted to Catholicism, a few of them remained Buddhists. However, whether Catholic or Buddhist, they preserved many traditional Chinese customs and incorporated them with Filipino traditions and beliefs.
The Chinese not only brought their business acumen and astuteness but also their unique flavors. Modern-day Binondo is a gastronomic paradise for all lovers of traditional Chinese cuisine.
As you wander through the narrow streets and tiny alleys, you’ll find countless stalls, restaurants, and hole-in-the-wall eateries serving some of the tastiest Chinese dishes you can imagine.
Given the constant traffic congestion, it’s better to leave your car at home and explore Binondo on foot. Go on a culinary adventure, shop until you drop, and discover trendy clothing and fashionable accessories at unbelievably low prices in the numerous shops.
If gold jewelry is your thing, you can find them in the rows of stores lining Ongpin Street. Just don’t be disappointed if you don’t stumble upon a gold nugget or two.
After you’ve explored all the tourist attractions, take selfies at famous landmarks, and indulged in legendary dishes like siopao, siomai, dumplings, purple hopia, and other flavors, don’t leave Binondo without trying the legendary siapo, siomai, dumplings, purple hopia, and other flavors. Come satisfy your hunger, challenge your taste buds, and embark on a culinary walking tour in Binondo. Kain tayo (Let’s eat)!
Dong Bei Dumpling Restaurant
The restaurant is so small, but don’t let its diminutive size fool you. Their dumplings are giant in flavor, and they are probably the best dumplings on this side of Chinatown.
The menu includes pork dumplings, wonton, very chewy dumpling-style bread rolls (Xiao Long Bao), fried pancake dumplings, and tofu dishes. A “must-try” on the menu is the incredibly flavorful garlic dumplings (kuchay), which are sold for only $3 for 14 pieces and are prepared fresh right in front of you. While you wait, they even serve you tea on the house. For refreshment and health, you can also purchase the famous cold Chinese tea: Wong Lo Kat.
And if you still can’t get enough of these dumplings, you can always order more for takeout.
Address: 642 Yuchengco corner V. Tytana Sts. Binondo, Manila, Philippines
Phone: (+63 2) 2418912
Hours: Open every day, 10:00-20:00.
New Po Heng Lumpia House.
If you’re craving Hokkien-style spring rolls (lumpia roll Hokkien-style), you’ve come to the right place. This is simply a hole-in-the-wall restaurant, where at first, you’ll need to navigate through a narrow alley to find it. Surprisingly, the narrow alley opens up to a small and charming courtyard with a spring that belongs to an old residential building. Like many of the Far Eastern restaurants you can find in the heart of Binondo Chinatown, they prepare their lumpia right in front of you. This adds to the gastronomic experience a sense of anticipation and excitement as you indulge in these crispy and appetizing spring rolls, which have a subtle garlic aroma.
Some of the secret ingredients include seaweed (lato), tofu, minced pork, chopped peanuts, and vegetables like carrots and cabbage. The lumpia will be delicious no matter how you choose to have it, whether with a natural flavor, or with the addition of garlic and vinegar. In sweet or sour sauce, and the most flavorful one is the house lumpia – the New Po Heng Lumpia.
Address: Uy Su Bin Building 531 Quintin Paredes St., Binondo Manila, Philippines
Phone: (+632) 7753 1891
Hours: Open from Monday to Saturday, 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM.
Sincerity Café and Restaurant.
Fried chicken is probably one of the most common and simplest dishes to prepare. And if you think you’ve had enough of this simple dish, just try half of Sincerity Restaurant’s famous fried chicken to change your mind (who doesn’t love fried chicken!). Their chicken is, in fact, quite famous and ranks second on the list of the top ten Pinoy-style fried chicken dishes in the Philippines.
Other interesting dishes include sticky rice with salty peanuts (Kiampong), egg noodle stir-fry (Kikiam), fried oyster cake, duck served on a bed of thin egg noodles (Duck Misua), and if you’re in the mood for something more exotic, they also serve fried frog legs.
Address: 497 Yuchengco St. (Formerly Nueva St.) Binondo Manila, Philippines
Phone: (+632) 8241 9990
Hours: Open from Monday to Saturday, 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM. Sundays: 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM.
Ying Ying Tea House.
This place is also one of the beloved culinary gems in Binondo. A quick glance at the establishment might give you the impression of a typical Chinese restaurant. There’s nothing extraordinary about the ambiance or service, but the place is always bustling with people who know what good food should taste like. Every dish at Ying Ying is worth every penny you’ll pay for it.
The most popular dishes include very tender spare ribs, Asado roll, hot salad, and taro soup. The oven-roasted Lechon Macau, with its crispy skin on the outside and tender, juicy meat on the inside, is exactly as it should be.
They also serve some of the tastiest congees (Congee) and dumplings in town. Another recommended dish is the Hakaw (shrimp siomai). To finish your meal, don’t forget to order a glass of Nai Cha, a cold, black tea mixed with milk, a refreshing way to complete your dining experience.
Address: 233-235 Dasmariñas corner Yuchengco Sts. (formerly Nueva St.), Binondo, Manila, Philippines
Phone: (+632) 5310 9031
Hours: Open daily from 7:00 AM to 2:00 AM.
Quick Snack.
For the past 47 years, this unpretentious restaurant has been serving not only Chinese dishes but also a fusion of Filipino, American, Spanish, and even Indonesian cuisines. It’s not surprising since the owner, originally of Chinese descent, hails from Indonesia.
Highlighted dishes on the menu include fresh lumpia (a top-seller), a vegetarian version of thin and salty Chinese noodles (misua), a Chinese-style filled pastry akin to empanadas (kutchay ah), and a house specialty – crispy noodles in satay sauce (Sate Mi). Good food at reasonable prices served quickly. It’s a combination that’s hard to beat.
Address: 637 Carvajal St., Binondo Manila, Philippines
Phone: (+632) 8242 9572
The Original SaLido Restaurant.
This is likely the oldest restaurant in the Binondo district, having been here for over 50 years. It’s famous for its coffee (try some of their selection of Filipino coffee, called Barako), and this place is particularly popular among middle-aged men. Whether it’s for closing a business deal or just enjoying a conversation with friends, a cup of freshly ground coffee is always a treat.
In addition to their famous coffee, they also serve food dishes like Chami (a wide fried noodle dish) that you simply must try, stuffed and fried tofu leaves (Beancurd Roll), Japanese-style pork dumplings (Siomai), salt and pepper spare ribs, preserved salt-cured ham hock (Pata hamon), roasted pork in the Asado style, and their famous and recommended house dish, Salido-style fried rice.
Address: 839 Ongpin St., Binondo Manila, Philippines
Phone: (+63 2) 5213331
Hours: Open daily from 6:00 AM to 9:00 PM.
Shanghai Fried Siopao.
Siopao are Chinese-style steamed buns filled with various fillings. Asado Siopao has a sweet filling made of pork, while Bola-Bola Siopao contains minced pork or chicken as the filling. These are classic dishes that you can find in many restaurants. However, if you want to try something a bit different from your regular Siopao, it’s best to visit Guagua Fried Siopao.
Somewhere between Ongpin Street and Bahama Street, you’ll find a small stall that sells Siopao and quickly becomes a favorite among food enthusiasts in Binondo. Treat yourself and find out why everyone raves about these fried Siopao. Just don’t be discouraged if you see people waiting in line, as this delicious Siopao often sells out quickly, and it takes some time to prepare a fresh batch.
So, be prepared to wait a bit to get what you want. You can always take them home and reheat them whenever you like.
Address: Ongpin St. corner Bahama St., Binondo Manila, Philippines
Hours: Open daily.
Eng Bee Tin Chinese Deli*.
Eng Bee Tin is well-known for its delicious Hopia, traditional Chinese pastries with various fillings. Hopia comes in different flavors and styles, and this shop offers some of the tastiest Hopia in Binondo. You can try Hopia Pandan (with a sweet coconut filling), Hopia Piña (with pineapple filling), Hopia Baboy (with pork filling), Hopia Mongo (with mung bean filling), or the classic Hopia Ube (with sweet purple yam filling).
For those who prioritize health, they also have Hopia Mongo Lite (with mung bean). A package of “Hopia for Long Life” would make a perfect birthday gift to send your best wishes for longevity and prosperity. However, Eng Bee Tin offers more than just Hopia. They also sell other Chinese snacks, traditional Filipino products, and even frozen items for you to take home. Keep an eye out for the purple fire extinguisher-themed packaging; these are the generous owner’s contributions to the Chinese community in Binondo.
If you prefer a quieter atmosphere while enjoying your Hopia, they also have a coffee shop called Eng Bee Tin Chinese Deli’s Cafe Mezzanine or “Fireman’s Coffee Shop.” In addition to their products, the coffee shop serves simpler dishes and the famous Filipino dessert Halo-Halo, which is a refreshing blend of crushed ice and various sweet ingredients.
Addresses:
- 628 Ongpin St., Binondo Manila, Philippines
- 650 Ongpin St. corner Yuchengco St. (formerly Nueva St.) Binondo, Manila, Philippines Phone: (+632) 8241 9999
Shin Tai Shang Grocery.
This small grocery store contains a selection of Chinese goods, flavors, candies, snacks, instant noodles, and frozen desserts that can be hard to find elsewhere. Pastries and small cakes are also sold here. For example, there are taro balls fried with a filling of taro yolk)) and a special rice cake filled with strawberries (strawberry mochi), which are a “must-try.”
Address: 815 Salazar St., Binondo, Manila, Philippines
Phone: (+632) 8244 0325
Hours: Open every day between 8:00 AM – 8:00 PM.
These are just a few of the recommended places in case the travel bug bites you and you find yourself wandering through the streets and alleys around Binondo, Manila’s Chinatown.
